By Henrylito D. Tacio

FROM “Murder City” to “one of the most livable cities in Asia” (both sobriquets were bestowed by the defunct “Asiaweek” magazine). Indeed, Davao City has gone a long, long way. Today, the city is one of the country’s top tourist destinations. Recently, businessmen have chosen Davao as one of the most competitive metropolitan cities in the Philippines, according to a report by the Asian Institute of Management (AIM) Policy Center.

“Davao is probably the least exposed of the country’s urban areas, and it’s most appealing,” contends Aaron Woods, a friend who visited the place recently. “It's a great holiday hideaway, what with its lush greenery and exotic wild flora and fauna that contribute to its picturesque.”

Because this tropical paradise possesses more of everything there is in a country – from enchanting scenery to natural resources – Davao is often considered “instant Philippines.”

Most visitors who come here describe Davao as “a land of exotic beauty and rich culture.” Local historians claim that the name Davao is derived from the ancient Bagobo word daba-daba, which means “fire.” On the other hand, the Tagabua tribe called the river bisecting the region “Daba,” and the Guiangan tribe tagged it “Davoh” – thus Davao.

History records showed Spaniards to be the first non-natives to visit Davao, led by Alvaro de Saavedra in 1528. In 1847, after the Spanish troops revolted and killed the Muslim leader Datu Bago, Don Jose Uyanguren became the first governor and renamed the place Guipuzcoa.

Japanese came in 1900 when they established extensive plantations of abaca around the gulf area and engaged in logging, fishing and trading. The increase of Japanese in the area earned Davao the nickname “Japan kuo” (little Japan). In 1937, Davao became a chartered city when President Manuel L. Quezon of the Philippine Commonwealth signed into law a bill sponsored by then Davao Assemblyman Romualdo Quimpo.

Largest city

With a total land area of 244,000 hectares, Davao is considered the largest city in the world.
Approximately, Davao is 7.8 times the size of Cebu and three times that of the entire Metro Manila. There were some talks before to divide the city into three cities, but some officials were against it. “We would loss our claim as the world’s largest city,” someone contested.

There are two reasons which make Davao unique: its people and its warm hospitality. Davao City is a melting pot of 1.2 million people, both indigenous and migrants now being acculturated into the mainstream of society, creating a unique cosmopolitan culture.
Visayan migrants make up the majority of the population. Ilongos and llocanos also abound.
Coexisting with these different Filipino groups are the Muslims and the indigenous tribes such as the Bagobos (who prefer to be called Tagabawa), Mandayas, Manobos, T’bolis, Mansakas and B’laans. “The solemn rituals of the tribes, their rhythmic dance steps and chanting music, and the rich customs and traditions of migrants make up the Davao culture of today,” observes a local tourism official.

Most people speak Visayan, particularly Cebuano. Other dialects include Tagalog, Chinese, and Muslim. Like most Filipinos, majority can speak and understand English. Eighty-four percent of the people are Roman Catholics. Protestants comprise 4.5 percent while more than two percent consider Islam as their religion.

Apo Duwaling

Davao is known for Mount Apo, the controversial durian, and the exotic “waling-waling.” Mount Apo is the country’s highest peak (10,311 feet) and Southeast Asia’s second highest. Climbing Mt. Apo takes about four days. Before climbing, however, contact the Department of Tourism Office in Davao or the Mt. Apo Climbers Association of Davao City where tents, camping, gear, provisions and guides are available.

The Davao Tourism Office also organizes Holy Week climbs called “Conquer Mt. Apo” and college semestral break ascents in October called “Octotrek,” where large numbers of climbers join in. You may scale Mount Apo via the trails of Tamayong (in Calinan), Baracatan (in Toril), and Eden (also in Toril).

During the hike, you will see a display of nature at its best and primeval state: lush tropical forest dotted with hot and cold springs, hidden waterfalls cascading with a thunderous roar, mystical orchids and wild flowers, soul-refreshing symphonies of cicadas and God's other little creatures.

Durian is controversial because of its odor. Most people said that durian stinks. But to some, its fragrance can be compared to a perfume. “It smells like hell and tastes like heaven” is how some Westerners described the fruit. In his dairy, the 19th-century British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace wrote that his journey to the East was worth it, “if only to taste of durian fruit.”

Here’s a timely tip to people visiting Davao and who would like to eat durian. After eating, put some water into the empty durian shell and wash your hands in it. This removes the smell. Try anything else – detergents, deodorant, or whatever – the smell will remain just as pungent. On the other hand, a novice eating durian should consult an expert before opening the fruit. Otherwise, he would only mess things up by wounding it, or worse, hurting himself with the sharp spikes.

The exotic waling-waling (Vanda sanderiana) used to abound in the tropical forest of Mount Apo and its surrounding areas. “The waling-waling is almost extinct in the wildlife,” said Dr. Domingo Madulid, the National Museum’s senior botanist. “'Rarer varieties of this plant can only be found in expensive nurseries.”

You can see the splendor beauty of waling-waling at the Malagos Garden Resort. Other rare orchids also abound. The resort has a restaurant, butterfly sanctuary, horseback riding facilities, fishponds, golf driving range, swimming pool, adventure playground, seminar halls, campsite, and cottages.

Endangered species

One of the resort’s recent tourist attractions is the “Malagos Garden’s Amazing Bird Show.” It opens at 10 in the morning every Sunday and strikes a serious environment note to the audience: save the birds before they'd be gone forever. Watching the Sunday birdshow, American birdwatcher Jonathan E. Rudy laments: “I've been to Africa and South America and I think, this country has some of the most beautiful I've ever seen. But I'm disturbed to know that some of them are being shot and maimed for life.”

Indeed, the Philippines is home to some of the world’s endangered bird species. One of them is the Philippine Eagle. See some of the remaining species at the Philippine Eagle Center, just two kilometers away from the Malagos Garden Resort. Don’t fail to marvel at “Pag-asa,” the very first tropical eagle bred in captivity and hatched scientifically.

Though the Philippine eagle is the star, other creatures which can be seen close up at the camp include hawks, owls, pythons, deer, monkeys and a huge Philippine crocodile.

If crocodile is your thing, visit Crocodile Park. It is here, where you can find the country's largest known crocodile – at 18 feet - aptly named “Pangil” (Tagalog for “fang”). This 5.4 hectare mini-zoo houses several of the two species of crocodiles found in the Philippines as well as mini-zoo with wild cats, python, turtles, monitor lizard, monkeys and various kinds of birds.

Fine beaches

Davao also has a number of beaches to offer. Times Beach, two kilometers from the city center, bustles with picnickers during Sundays and holidays. Historic Talomo Beach is best remembered as a landing site for Japanese and American forces during World War II. In
fact, sunken warships during the war can still be found just 200 meters from the shore. Other noted beaches are Seagull Beach Resort and Felis Beach Resort in Punta Dumalag, Mergrande in Talomo, and the Vales Beach Resort and High Ponds in Toril.

Across the strait due east from the mainland is Samal, an unspoiled island ringed with secluded coves of white sand. Ten minutes away via pumpboat from the Waterfront Insular Hotel is a white expanse of beach dotted with resorts such as Paradise Island Beach, coolly welcoming under the shade of talisay trees.

Perhaps the most regal beach resort among them is the Pearl Farm. Nestled in a secluded cove on Samal Island 45 minutes by motor launch off the coast of Davao, it was featured during the Miss Universe Contest a couple of years ago. “In here,” says one resort staffer, “we only have one rule: We don't allow anyone to leave unsatisfied.”

For diving aficionados, Davao Gulf teems with underwater vistas. Some of the more popular sites are found at Ligid Island, Talicud Island, Mushroom Rock, Limao/Sunken Island, Pearl Farm and Isla Malipano. These dive sites are 45 minutes to two hours away via pumpboat from the wharf of the Waterfront Insular Hotel, and a few minutes away from Samal Island piers.

Museums and buildings

If you love museums, don’t miss the Davao Museum at the Insular Village in Lanang. This museum offers you the opportunity to understand the soul of the people of Davao. Its main gallery is a repository of tribal art and other material culture such as: tribal art costumes, jewelries, handicrafts and others. Also a gallery of paintings, sculptures and ceramics and a
souvenir shop of native crafts.

At the heart of the city, visit the San Pedro Cathedral, Davao City's oldest church named after San Pedro, the patron saint of Davao. The church was built in the year 1847 during the Spanish period led by Don Jose Uyanguren, the Spanish Conquestador of Davao. The old altar of then San Pedro Church is preserved at the right wing of the cathedral featuring old/antique images of saints and that of Saint Peter.

Festival of festivals

Davao comes alive with the celebration of the “Kadayawan sa Dabaw” every third week of August, coinciding with the harvest of fruits, flowers and agricultural produce. Major thoroughfares are set ablaze with dancing and cheers with the “Indak-indak sa kadalanan” (street dancing), a spectacle of performers in ethnic-inspired garments dancing to the beat of tribal music, and the Floral Float Parade, which features floral and agricultural bounties.

Every March 16, “Araw ng Dabaw” is celebrated with vibrancy as the Davaoenos commemorate the founding of the city. The event is observed with a parade around the major thoroughfares and highlighted by the search for the city’s Ambassadress of Goodwill.

In honor of its patron saint, the street of San Pedro is colorfully adorned in celebration of the St. Peter’s Day every 19th of June. The parochial festival features bazaars set up and the vicinity of the parish, selling souvenirs, accessories and religious items.

Getting to Davao

By air, Davao is a 90-minute ride from Manila, 40 minutes from Cebu. Regular flights come in from Manila, Cebu, Cagayan de Oro, General Santos and Camiguin and is serviced by Philippine Airlines, Air Philippines, and Cebu Pacific. Two Asian Airlines also connect from Manado in Indonesia and Singapore.

By land, the travel time is six hours from Butuan City, six to eight hours via Bukidnon from Cagayan de Oro City. Land Transportation serviced by Bachelor Express, Ceres Liners, Yellow Bus, Holiday Bus and Grand. Manila/Davao route is solely done by Philtranco Bus and it takes about two days to travel.

By sea, it takes approximately 49 hours from Manila, 24 hours from Cebu, and 17 hours from Zamboanga City. Weekly sailings from Manila, Cebu, Zamboanga and Iloilo are done by WG&A Shipping lines, Sulpicio Lines and Negros Navigation.

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