By Henrylito D. Tacio

"CHARMING" is a word I usually use to describe a lady. But I can't help using the term when describing Bangkok, the capital of Thailand. I have been to this city several times and each time, I am always enthralled by its beauty and charm. It casts an irresistible spell of enchantment. After all, Thais call Bangkok as "Krung Thep" or "City of Angels."

"More than anywhere else in the country, Bangkok expresses Thailand's uncanny ability to blend the old with the new," an American who was beside me in the plane from Manila to Bangkok said of the Orient's most fabled city.

He's right. Bangkok embraces modern development and presents an initial picture of thrusting office towers; of world-class hotels offering deluxe comforts; of glittering shopping plazas packed with treasures of the East such as silks and gemstones; of restaurants serving Thailand's acclaimed spicy specialties and virtually every other national cuisine worthy of the name.

Amid this sybaritic world, Bangkok manages to preserve its cultural heritage to an amazing degree. In the rich splendor of the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, the Temple of Dawn and other historic shrines, you see images of medieval Oriental wonder.

The Grand Palace is an array of temples and shrines that has been called "a dazzling fairy tale of dreams." Chakri Palace, the Royal Family's original home, is also here, but the King now lives in the more modern Chitlada Palace nearby.

Thais consider the Temple of the Emerald Buddha as sacred so taking of photos of the green image is strictly prohibited. The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is an amazing figure measuring 48 meters long and 15 meters high.

On the banks of the river is the Temple of Dawn. It is one of Bangkok's striking landmarks. Parts of it are 90 meters high and are covered with fragments of porcelain and pottery.

When you want to take a respite from the hectic pace of life in Bangkok, go to any of the numerous public parks in the city. One of them is located at the corner of Phra Sumane Road and Phra Atit Road, a 15-minute walk from the Grand Palace and Sanam Lang. Known as Santichaiprakan Park, it was built during the reign of King Rama I. However, the largest and most visited park is the Suan Lumpini, which was named after the Buddha's birthplace in Nepal. It is bordered by Rama IV Road to the south, Sarasin Road to the north, Witthayu Road to the east and Ratchadamri Road to the west.

Bangkok, once dubbed the Venice of the East, has hundreds of miles of klongs (canals) snaking through the city. These klongs ensure the continuation of a riverine tradition that dates back centuries ago.

For many visitors, a klong tour may provide some of the most unforgettable experiences. You will see Thai riverside houses that appear as much as the ancient houses, beautiful temples, and saffron-robbed monks mediating placidly under the trees.

For food lovers, Thailand is a treat. My friend Eliza Guliban will definitely agree with me on this. My former boss, Jeff Palmer, who's now living in Chiang Mai, won't contest this claim. In fact, when I was in New York City two years ago, I readily ate in a Thai restaurant - this was after I failed to find a restaurant that serve Filipino foods.

In Bangkok, dining offers almost endless possibilities for discovering exciting new tastes, rich in quality and variety. Thai food is pungent, spicy and hot. The chili is indispensable in Thai cooking, and so are the herbs like lemon grass, coriander, basil and galanga root.

If you want fried dishes, order any of the following: khao phad (fried rice with pork, chicken, sausage or seafood), phad Thai (fried shredded noodles with shrimps, bean sprouts, peanuts and chili), phad si eiw (fried noodles with vegetable and meat), phad priew wan (sweet and sour vegetable with fried pork, chicken or seafood), and phad nua nam man hoi (fried beef with oyster sauce). If soup is what you prefer, ask for any of these: kaeng chued (a mild flavor clear soup made of vegetables and meat, fish ball or chopped pork), tom yum (a hot and spicy soup with a variety of vegetables), and tom khaa kai (chicken with galingale in coconut milk soup).

Bangkok offers an incredible selection of dining places in all price ranges. From kerside foodstalls selling simple but good food, to smart, expensive restaurants, there is something to please everyone. If language is the barrier, just point and you will almost certainly get what you want.

There are several ways of getting around Bangkok. The bus network within the metropolis is very efficient and economical. It is a wonderful way to tour the city cheaply. Numbered buses ply specific routes. However, if you want a more flexible and comfortable way of getting around, regular taxicabs abound. "Meters are not used and you must negotiate the fare in advance with the driver," warned Prangthip Daorueng, a Thai journalist who toured me around the city. "This may seem a little awkward at first, but once mastered the system is preferable to meters as you don't pay an extra should you get stuck in a traffic jam."

An alternative type of taxi is the so-called "tuk-tuk," a three-wheeled vehicle taking two passengers (three or four in a squeeze). They are rather noisy and are open to traffic fumes, though they are extremely popular with visitors who find them quaint. Fares are slightly cheaper than those for ordinary taxis.

Still another is the Skytrain. There are two skytrain railways: one from the northern bus terminal at Morchit to Sukhumvit Soil 77 and the other runs from the National Stadium to Taksin Bridge at the end of Sathorn Road. I have never ridden one, but here's what "Time" correspondent Jason Bagliardi says of the ride: "The Skytrain opened up a world of possibilities and revealed a city of hidden beauty. Things you would rarely glimpse from the roads: the golden swoop of a temple roof, pockets of lushest green, elegantly crumbling teakwood homes."

While in Bangkok, please observe the following. Refrain from touching a Thai on the head. Thais believe the head if the most sacred part of the body. The feet are considered the basest part of the body; don't rest your feet or put your shoes on a table, and don't stretch out your feet in anyone's direction.

The traditional Thai greeting is the wai, wherein the hands are brought together in front of the chin. The younger or the lower-ranking person "wais" first. Sanuk is a Thai word describing everything that is fun, enjoyable and that gives pleasure. This combine with the phrase mai pen rai ("Never mind"). These should remain in your mind during your stay in this country.

How do you get there? Most visitors arrive through Bangkok's Don Muang International Airport, which is connected by daily flights to Europe, North America, Asia and Australia aboard the world's major airlines.

Sawadee!

ooOoo